SHAMELESS SELF PROMOTION

Yellow lady slippers blooming at Timberhill

Yellow lady slippers blooming at Timberhill

Except for the widely crowned oak trees that were scattered throughout our timber when Bill and I purchased Timberhill, it didn’t differ much from most Iowa woodlands. Overstocked with pole timber and invaded by eastern red cedar and multiflora rose the land had been heavily grazed and left to fallow.  We wanted to improve the land but had no idea how to go about it. It was with the guidance of many knowledgeable people that we learned how to restore the oak savanna habitat.    We learned that we had to cut down trees to improve the woodland. Working through 10 to 15 acres at a time our district forester guided us through timber stand improvement. We learned that our land was a degraded oak savanna and that frequent prescribed fire would restore the understory plants and control woody invasives.  On many field trips organized by the Iowa Native Plant Society and Iowa Prairie Network we learned about Iowa’s native plants and habitats.

But our most important lesson was from Nature:  that given time, patience and minimal interference she prevails.  To quote English writer Richard Mabey,

 “For it is nature’s fight back which is such an inspiration, her dogged and inventive survival in the face of all that we deal out. It is this survival story, and what it means for us that is the subject of this book.” (The Unofficial Countryside.  1973. 2010.)

Watching the natural springs return, seeing clumps of ladyslipper orchids bloom again in the restored woodland, observing  remnant wetlands expand exponentially each year, and  collecting ectomycorrhizal fungi never before recorded in Iowa-all are evidence of nature’s recuperative powers.  I don’t understand how it happens but I could see and record the results.  My book Timberhill: Chronicle of a Restoration is that record.

The book is self published on CreateSpace and available through Amazon.

There will be no regular post on May 20.  The next post will be on June 3.

Ghost Town

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Timberhill is located in Woodland Township in the southern part of Decatur County.  According to a history of Decatur County it was so named for it’s heavy growth of timber.  An 1878 map of the county shows timber covering fully two-thirds of the township.   The early settlers cleared the timber ten acres at a time converting for agricultural use.  By the end of the nineteenth century the township was a patchwork of small farms with pasture and woodland.

By 1890 the Woodland Township population was 837; in 2010 it was 110. Woodland, the pioneer village in the center of the township was once a thriving community.  A post office, bank, telephone central office, blacksmith shop, 2 hotels, 2 churches, several stores, and a cafe lined the streets. To serve the surrounding countryside there were even medical and insurance, loan and real estate offices.  Now Woodland is a virtual ghost town.  All that is left of the thriving community at the junction of Woodland Road and J46, formerly known as Main Street, are 2 houses and the Woodland Community Church.  The church was built by early settlers in1872.  They “cleared a tract of timber land donated by one of their number and a little church was erected using much of the native timber.” This was the first building erected in Woodland.  Now it is the last nineteenth century building still standing.  The former Woodland schoolhouse across the street had been converted to a community center.  But now that is being razed.

Woodland Village

Woodland Village

And the patchwork of small farms and homesteads is being consolidated into large ranches and hunting camps.  Yesterday Bill and I drove to Woodland to photograph the village site.  After Woodland we drove east to the county border and then south to the Iowa-Missouri state line before heading home.  In the hour and one-half that we meandered on the country roads we encountered only one other vehicle.  Whenever we saw a new building it was heavily gated and posted “Electronic Surveillance in Use”.   Decatur County is known for its abundance of white tail deer and wild turkeys.  The new buildings and signs mark hunting camps owned by out-of-state residents some of them comprising over 3000 acres.  Now the deer hunters are the ones impacting the landscape by encouraging the growth of red cedar for deer habitat and plowing up the native grass pastures to plant food plots. Their only concern is shooting a big buck.

Napoleon’s Drummer Boy

After Bill and I purchased the land we named Timberhill in Decatur County, Iowa we often explored the area. On one of our explorations of our township (Woodland) we turned off Woodland Road onto a road that dead ended in a heavy timber.  Just north of the dead end we discovered a well maintained acre of land with the sign “Lentz Cemetery.”   In the center of the cemetery was a tombstone with a brass plaque that stated “Drummer Boy Battle of Waterloo 1815.”  Buried here was Erhard Lentz who died March 5, 1873.

 

Erhard Lentz Headstone

Erhard Lentz Headstone

I was certain there was an interesting backstory to this tombstone so I did some research.    I learned that at age 17 Erhard Lentz was Napoleon Bonaparte’s drummer boy.  He rode on Napoleon’s carriage when Napoleon surrendered to Wellington after losing the Battle of Waterloo.  After the war Lentz returned to his native Germany where he became a weaver.  He immigrated to the United States in the 1820’s settling first in Virginia then in Harrisburg, Ohio. In 1853 Erhard’s son, Jacob Lentz, purchased 3500 acres of land in Woodland Township for $1.25/ acre.  After settling in Decatur County Jacob sold portions of his land to new settlers keeping 300 acres for himself.  In 1854 Erhard Lentz sold his farm in Ohio and asked his son, “To see for a piece of land say 80 acres of timbered land near about you. If you can try to preserve it for us till we can send you the money for it you must let us know how much it is the first payment.”   The purchase was made and Erhard Lentz  moved to Woodland Township later that year.

The cemetery is located on land that Jacob Lentz had owned.  He donated the cemetery land after his infant son Lewis Kossuth Lentz died in April 1854.   And how wonderfully ironic that Napoleon’s drummer boy’s grave is located in Louisiana Purchase territory, land that Napoleon sold to finance his wars!

Timberhill Archeology

After we purchased the Timberhill property from Doyle Butcher I wanted to learn as much as possible about the history of our land.  Born in 1925 Doyle lives in the house his grandparents built.  Fortunately, he has an excellent memory and was able to recall the stories passed down from his grandparents.  Most interesting are stories he told us about the Indians who used to camp in the field across from his house.  That field is above Brush Creek at the north edge of Timberhill property.  It was the location of a Potawatomie sugar camp.  Each year in late winter an Indian band arrived riding across the prairie on horseback.   Everything they owned was piled on the horses that carried them along the trail:  rolled up reed wigwams hung across the horses’s backs-on top were piled pots, kettles, and animal skins.

After setting up camp they tapped the sugar maple trees along the creek and boiled down the juice to make maple sugar.  They drew their water from a spring under a large white swamp oak at the edge of the bottom woodland. (That tree fell last year.) Nearby was  a plentiful supply of dry elm to heat their wigwams. (Elm was preferred because it produces little smoke.)

I was curious whether we could find any evidence of these early Timberhill settlers.  The spring was easy to locate-it’s where we always get stuck when driving through that field.   Walking the field above the spring one day after rainfall Bill and I searched for Indian artifacts.  The field had been burned the previous winter and scrapers, arrowheads, and an axe were easy to find in the dirt.

Scrapers, arrowheads and axhead found at site of Indian sugar camps

Scrapers, arrowheads and an axhead found at the site of an Indian sugar camp above Brush Creek

I found more information about Potawatamie sugar camps in a history of Decatur County.  The largest camp, 300 strong, was along the Grand River near Terre Haute.  They traded maple sugar for bread, cornmeal, and meat from the white settlers.   I also learned that  a huge oak tree the Indians considered sacred was located near the camp .  They put their sick in its branches because it was believed that death could not reach them there.  They also believed that a spring under the tree contained healing waters.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Sense of Place

 

Ridgetop meadow before restoration

Ridgetop meadow before restoration

I’ll never forget the first time Bill and I saw Timberhill.  We were crammed into the front seat of a pickup truck between Mike Whitfield and Pauline Warren.  Bill and I had been looking for land in the country for over one year and had finally narrowed our search to Decatur County on the Iowa-Missouri border.  Mike was showing us land he had for sale and Pauline was the realtor we had hired to negotiate for us. Mike had two tracts of land for sale: 160 acres along the Weldon River and 225 acres along Pony Farm Road to the north.   After showing us the Weldon River bottom tract, he followed a trail uphill through second growth oak and hickory woodlands.  At the top of the hill was a gate that opened into a ridgetop meadow.

As Mike followed the trail through the meadow Bill and I both sensed that there was something special about this place.  Branches of wide crowned oak trees at the meadow’s edge grazed the tops of prairie grasses and wildflowers.  Sheltering and private, this was completely unexpected.   Bill and I knew immediately that this was the land we were looking for.  We asked Mike if we were still on his land.

“No, this is Doyle’s,” he said.  “He lives in that white house across the road. I always cut through here to get from my south farm to the north property.”

The trail followed the highest point on the ridge.  Sloping gradually away from both sides of the trail, the ridge top meadow melded into the surrounding woodland. Bright sunlight highlighted the wildflowers and grasses and reflected off the surface of a small pond dug into the hillside below the trail. As we drove by, red-winged blackbirds nesting in cattails at the water’s edge scolded us for intruding into their territory. Bill and I were no longer interested in Mike’s land, and as soon as Mike dropped us off  we went to Doyle’s house. Was he willing to sell his land that included the ridgetop meadow?   Yes, he was. His father had tried to sell that land, but according to Doyle, “It wasn’t worth nothing.  That white oak soil, you know, nothing will grow on it,”   Three months later we closed and were owners of 120 acres in Decatur County.

But we had no idea how to manage our land. Never having owned land in the country we went about it the wrong way.   We still had a city dwellers’ attitude – everything mowed, trimmed and weed-free.  We began by clearing the ridgetop meadow.  I hired two neighbors to pull the trees and scrub around the pond.   Then we plowed the soil destroying any remnant native plants and grasses.  We cut the hawthorn and shingle oak scrub in the rest of the meadow, stacked it into a brush pile and burned it. That sterilized the soil and destroyed more native plants and seeds.  After we stopped stacking the brush, we mowed it thereby removing the structural complexity needed for bird habitat. In those early years we also used a lot of Round-Up on the woody invasives in the North and East Savanna.  That killed not only the invasives but New Jersey tea as well.  The only things we did right were  timber stand improvement and implement prescribed fire.

After annual dormant season  burns the meadow retains the structural complexity songbird habitat

After annual dormant season burns the meadow retains the structural complexity songbird habitat

In 1998 I decided that I should be seeding wildflowers from the savanna indicator lists.  Thankfully,  a wise expert put me on the right track. He told me that  I should determine what I had instead:  inventory the Timberhill plants and use the sampling and inventory data to calculate floristic quality.  With that data as a baseline I could track changes over time and determine whether the floristic quality was increasing or decreasing .  From then on Bill and I limited our restoration management to prescribed fire and thinning of the overstocked woodlands.  That allowed the Genius loci, the special quality of Timberhill to reveal itself. Rather than fitting into the archetype of what a savanna should be and which plants should be found there, the land now has  has a unique sense of place.